Sunday, 13 September 2015

Seeking India


Mark and I will be spending about three weeks in India while on our long voyage this December/January. We’ll fly to Delhi after a week in Istanbul, spend a few days there, then fly to Calcutta (now Kolkata) where we will join a GAP tour for two weeks, travelling by train up the Ganges, stopping along the way at several cities, and ending back at Delhi. From there we will visit Bangkok, Vietnam, and Hong Kong. We travelled in South East Asia in 2000, the first of our every-five-year long trips, visiting Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia. Mark has travelled in India. When he was just a lad of 24 to 26, he lived in a small city in Thailand, constructing an air base and other pieces of infrastructure as the US built up its presence in that area, readying for the big push on Vietnam. He and his first wife Bobi had access to the American services flights throughout the area when he was on leave. They took advantage of that largesse, dropping about five times into India and seeing Delhi, Mumbai, Agra, Chandigarh, and[Kashmir.

I have never been to India though for decades I have been interested in its long history and diversity. Much of my early knowledge and sense of it came through reading the novels of people like Paul Scott and EM Forster – in other words I imbibed a distinctly British Raj sensibility with respect to the sub-continent. Over the years though, through films, documentaries, more recent novels, and reporting by writers like Stephanie Nolen of the Globe, I have developed a more realistic perspective on the present day conditions of this enormously populated country. On our visit to Egypt in 2010 I had an experience of these perspectives intersecting. The tour along the Nile that we took included a three day cruise. Our group was slightly too large to be seated together at one of the circular dining tables. Most of our fellow travellers were about the ages of my daughters. They secured a table together; we sat nearby with another couple about our age and a family of five from Bangalore, India: parents about our ages, their son and only child, his wife and five year old daughter.

I was pleased by this arrangement as the Indian family held great interest for me. I had an opportunity on several occasions to talk with them, especially with the mother. She was quite forthcoming about her background, caste, and family customs. She and her husband were Brahmin. Their marriage had been arranged in the ways of their people (which she detailed for me), as had that of their son. This lady had grown up under the Raj. Her father had held some important position in the British government there and they had lived during her youth in a beautiful mansion in Bangalore. She seemed to me the quintessential upper class British Empire/Indian woman of whom Paul Scott wrote in The Jewel in the Crown. Though she was about seven years younger than me, she appeared to be some years older. Her demeanour was entirely gentle and kindly. We took to one another quickly and had a series of talks about her life and her family.

Her husband, by contrast, seemed inserted into the life of the modern, burgeoning India. He was an engineer who owned a company that made doors for airplanes. Their son, also an engineer, worked for the firm and clearly was positioned to take over from his father when he retired. The son’s wife, though well-educated and also of the Brahmin caste, did not work outside the home (the home, I hasten to add, shared by all five of the family members). At dinner this lady was quiet to the point of being mute. Her sole duty seemed to be the care and (literally) the feeding of her young daughter. She cut and gave each morsel to the little girl, who seemed to take no initiative whatsoever in her own nutrition. The child and her father also were quite silent during the meals, though the young man would talk with us if his parents had left the table. The entire situation seemed claustrophobic in particular for the younger generation, though it undoubtedly replicated that experienced by the older lady in her own early marriage.

All of the above detail is by introduction to the day I spent on Friday “seeking India.” Our visit there requires visas. I had tried to apply on line but had run into snags that were frustrating. I tried to call their consulate but there was only a series of messages to listen to. I phoned the organization to which the Government of India has given the on-line business of arranging passports and visa, again with no satisfaction. So I determined to go to them. I started from home about 9:45 AM, going by subway and then bus to an office in Don Mills on Lawrence Ave E. I arrived about 10:55 and spent the next half hour standing in line to speak to the receptionist. There were about 30-40 people either in my line or waiting in chairs to my left to be seen by case workers facilitating their requests. Other than one other lady I was the only non-South East Asian person present. I minded none of the above circumstances. I was on a mission to get into India and this was all part of the process. My turn: I produced passports and tiny (ugly photos) and requested visas for our trip. Where was my application form? I hadn’t one—wouldn’t that be provided there? No, one could only get one on-line. Ouch! All that way, all that time, to simply be sent home again.

My mood was considerably less up-beat on the journey back into the center of the city. But no matter, I would get Mark to work on the application process with me this weekend as his grasp of up-loading tiny pictures is superior to mine. In the meantime I headed downtown to the Carlton theatre to see an Indian film called “Court” that I had read about. This was no Bollywood movie. Its story was of a somewhat rabble-rousing poet/singer who was arrested and accused of abetting the suicide of a sewer worker who, it was alleged, had been moved by the lyrics of one of his songs heard two days before his death. The singer, an older man known to the police for his incendiary, anti-establishment musical rants, rarely appears in the film, other than on two occasions when he was performing with his troupe of singers and musicians. The real focus of the movie is the Indian court system, its inefficiency and interminable delays.

Most of the (in)action was portrayed in the courts themselves. The judge, prosecuting attorney and the counsel for the defence are shown again and again for brief appearances with witnesses. Some missing information or unexamined issue always provoked a delay sufficient to have the case put over to a later date. In the meantime the poet, having been denied bail, was incarcerated. Various points became clear as the “trial” continued though they seemed to have little effect on the judge or the disposition of the case. The police accepted the word of a man who was known to have acted as a witness for the prosecution in several unrelated cases, always those investigated by the same police officer. The “proof” that the sewer worker had committed suicide lay in the fact that he had worked there for three years without injury, yet had been found dead in the sewer tunnel with no protective gear, something alleged to only have been possible if he had deliberately entered the tunnel to take his life by inhaling the poisonous fumes therein. Testimony by his wife, however, made it clear that the man had never been issued protective gear. He had always gauged the levels of noxious gases by looking to see if there were live cockroaches close to the entrance! The city agency responsible for sewer workers, undoubtedly Dalits, formerly called “untouchables,” did not provide adequate working conditions for its employees. No piece of testimony appeared to make any impact upon either the judge or the prosecutor. The trial simply continued at its glacial pace to the on-going frustration of the defence attorney, the poet’s supporters, and I must say, the theatre audience.

There were side scenes showing something of the lives of the three main players: prosecutor, defence, and judge. The prosecuting attorney, seemingly secure in her adamant defence of the laws of the land – even of statutes enacted over a century earlier – went home to her family in the evenings, cooking supper while supervising her son’s homework, and giving some legal advice to a friend by telephone. The defence counsel, a bachelor with his own place and friends with whom he enjoyed evenings out, contended with his nagging and demanding parents. The judge, seen at a day-long party with family and friends, gives advice to a young man who is concerned about the behaviour of one of his children: have a ring made for him with a particular gem-stone.

The film ends with no resolution to the case, in fact, with a fairly clear idea that it will continue for years. In all likelihood the poet, whose health is not strong, will die in prison. When the screen darkened and the credits began to roll, the small audience for the film united in a half-groan, half-laugh. The point about the ineffectiveness of the court system was clearly made. Still, it was an interesting movie, not showcasing the exotic beauties of India, but rather, in muted shades giving a slice of post-colonial day-to-day life within one sector.

I continue to seek India, clear that my roughly three weeks in the country will only give me, as did this film, windows into small slices of the vastness of this ancient land and people.

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